Yamal
2015-2016

«True people» (Nenei nenecha) – self-name of Nenets, the indigenous people of the Yamal peninsula, and the name of the complex 2015–2016 ethnographic expedition. Project participants and the visitors of the resource will be the part of the reindeer herders's family during the whole year just to «dive» in the casual life of the modern XXI century nomads.

 

We continue to publish our August diary. On August 10th we arrived at our 35th encampment since beginning of our expedition: N 70º14'37,8'' E 067º58'14,7'',linear distance from the last encampment - 6,1 kms. While our two last times of kaslanie we moved in the North-West direction, now our four chums turned to the West. Later Kostja and Yaroslav Hudi, following the usual route of Savoli Podovitch, will round Lengaz from the North and turn South, cross Mordi-Yaha river and stay for the whole winter near Hralov railway station. Vladimir Hudi will stay at the left bank of Mordi-Yaha, South of Bovanenkovo town. About 2,8 kms from our 35th encampment we'll build a coral to separate the four family's herds.

 

Alеxander with an artic fox's skin: 

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Drying fish:

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(Please press "Читать полностью")

 

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Toy bears in the narta of Vladimir Hudi's family: 

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Yaroslav Hudi's family drinking tea before kaslanie. 10.08.2015.

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We stayed at our 36th encampment place from August 12th to 18th: N 70º15'44,1'' E 067º53'07,0'', a linear distance from the last camp - 3,8 kms. This time we moved alone without neighbors. Our former neighbors will stay at the former camp's place for another several days, before the joined herd will be devided again. During yerkolava we picked many of our bulls. Kostja Hudi helped to lead them to our camp. 

After dividing his herd, Kosja Serotetto, our host, moved in North-Western direction. Different from former neighbors, he wants to stay longer in the lower flows of Moedi-Yaha river, then cross the river and stay on the right bank. We will return late in the autumn, when the river will be already frozen. Kostja also decided about the wintering place - this time he doesn't want to go to Yuribei river, and plans to stay near Yasavei river and Yasaveito lake.  

All four families before dividing. Last picture before every family goes its own way: 

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We stayed for a week at a new camp place. First it felt unusually quiet after living close to other families, this time with only one chum. But day by day we've got used to it. There lights of Bovanenkovo town on the horizon, it's only 20 kms to it.  

The most difficult task during parting after joined summer kaslanie - is to separate the herds. In the brigades they usually build big corals wiith several sepateraded "rooms". But for several years already our neighbours are organizing a coral using a local relief. Reindeer herders found in the tundra a narrow path between two big lakes, which is easy to fence from both sides. To the pleace of this coral had come all former neighbours - all adulds and kids except maybe for newborns and babies. In the same time herders led the joined herd to the lakes.

First herders barried the narrowest part of the coral. Then the herd arrived and was lead inside the coral. It was important not to frighten the animals and let them peacefully enter the coral using the narrow path. When they all got inside the coral, men closed the way back. Women and kids helped to keep reindeers inside. Men frew lassos and team the animals without any pause, and tried to pick as much reindeers of Kostja then possible. 

During the first day we've team 92 reindeers, the second day - about 30. Teamed reindeer were roped and waited till the end of the parting process. Then joined herd was lead away, Kostja brought his reindeers to our chum.  

On the way to big coral. Kostja and Olja, 13.08.2015.

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Alexander, Kosta and Olja: 

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On the way to big coral. Vladimir Hudi: 

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Sergey and Nadja Hudi: 

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Alexander Volkovicky: 

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A big coral between two lakes: IMG 3680

After parting from other families Kostja's duties with the reindeer herd became much harder. He is going to sleep about 23:00, when wakes up at 03:00 am and goes to the herd, comes back about 08:00am to have some tea, sleep for a while and then go back to the herd. In the private herders' families often all family members are included in the looking after the animals, so Kostja's wife Albina is helping him. We are not trusted with the task since we are not long here in tundra and have no experience. We are helping in other important everyday works in the chum: cooking meals, collecting firewood and bringing water, looking after children and so on. When tundra nights become darker, it will be much easier to go to night duties: reindeers will tend to stay at one place, don't move, and a duty man can sleep normally. 

A pile of stones in tundra. Alexandra tries to find out maybe this is a monument for archeologists, since that day there was a Day of archeologist in Russia: 

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Since the middle of August nights became darker and darker. Kostja is going to the night duty: 

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Our chum standing alone near lower reaches of Mordi-yaha river:

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A view from our chum to night lights of Bovanenkovo town (it's about 20 kms distance):

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After dividing herds Kostja is alone going to look after reindeers. Albina helps him only occasionally at daytime: 

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Hasavako, 16.08.2015.

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A view from our encampment to Bovanenkovo town:

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Yamal's sky: 

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